Thursday 28 January 2010

T.G.I.W.

As I mentioned before, the Saudi weekend takes place on Thursday and Friday, which makes Wednesday the Saudi Friday. This Wednesday I arrived at the house to find both children getting ready to go to friends' houses, so I was even more inactive than usual. I read Arab News cover to cover, wrote a shopping list, sharpened all the coloured pencils in my pencil case, did the Sudoku at the back of Arab New and got through a fair chunk of the novel I'm reading, East of Eden.

At one point I was summoned by my host and employer, who often asks me to help when she struggles on the computer. It emerged that she had received an email from her sister recommending that she look at a range of evening dresses online, and she wanted me to find them. Once I had, she phoned her sister and spoke to her, while I was asked to remain attendant. My job was this: with the image gallery open in front of us, I was to click 'next' or 'previous' according to whether Madame, who was sitting next to me, pointed right or left. It seems worth mentioning that she was using a hands-free kit to call her sister.

I don't want it to seem like I'm complaining - this is a very comfortable job, and I'm being paid well. That's just it though; I realised as I stood clicking that I've been flown across the globe, put in a hotel at considerable expense and paid a decent wage to do the work of an index finger. I'm drawn irresistibly to the conclusion that when you've got so much money you never need a job again, your job becomes thinking of ways to spend your money. If you lack imagination, this job seems no easier or harder than the job I'm doing. Certainly the family enjoys benefits unavailable to me, but once you've got a member of staff for each digit, where do you go from there?

I thought I might include a passage from East of Eden that bears coincidental relevance to the subject. The extract is from a conversation between Samuel Hamilton and Lee, a Chinese servant in California at the turn of the 20th Century. Most of the conversations between these two characters read like Confucius and Forrest Gump exchanging weird metaphors and inscrutable proverbs, but I quite like this bit. Samuel has just asked Lee why (since he is an intelligent man) he is content to be a servant:

"I don't know where being a servant came into disrepute. It is the refuge of a philosopher, the food of the lazy, and, properly carried out, it is a position of power, even of love. I can't understand why more intelligent people don't take it as a career - learn to do it well and reap its benefits. A good servant has absolute security, not because of his master's kindness, but because of habit and indolence. It's a hard thing for a man to change spices or lay out his own socks. He'll keep a bad servant rather than change. But a good servant, and I am an excellent on, can completely control his master, tell him what to think, how to act, whom to marry, when to divorce, reduce him to terror as a discipline, or distribute happiness to him, and finally be mentioned in his will. If I had wished I could have robbed, stripped, and beaten anyone I've worked for and come away with thanks. Finally, in my circumstances I am unprotected. My master will defend me, protect me. You have to work and worry. I work less and worry less. And I am a good servant. A bad one does no work and does no worrying, and he still is fed, clothed, and protected. I don't know any profession where the field is so cluttered with incompetents and where excellence is so rare"
(John Steinbeck, East of Eden)

I may as well try to be a good servant, for all the trouble it would give me; during the eight hours I was at the house on Wednesday I gained as much from my host's wealth as she did. It's unlikely I'll be mentioned in the will of course, but that's only because in four months or so I'll be moving back to the UK, eventually to start a job that makes some sort of sense.


Identikit

Pun Opportunity Tragically Squandered

Sunday 24 January 2010

Startled Wizard Engulfed in Peanuts despite Sunflower

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Tonight is my third night in the shabby brown hotel room that is my home for the next few weeks. The curtains are stained, the pillows are hard, but it serves as a pleasing contrast to the ridiculous luxury of the mansion in which I spend my working day (I say this before cabin fever has set in... watch this space). In my last post I made a gross overestimate of the amount of free time I would have. My predictions were based on the job description I was given, but what's a job description to someone who's never worked?

Today a car arrived for me three hours early, and one of my student's after school activities meant I had to postpone his lesson until 9pm. Not that this eleven hour day was arduous by any stretch of the imagination - I spent more time reading Arab News ("The middle east's leading English language newspaper") cover to cover than actually tutoring, but I'm beginning to see the problems attendant on being stranded, a phone call away from your employer.

So with all this I've not really had time for the predicted culture shock. My only excursions have been to the British International School and the supermarket across the road from my hotel. The former was unexceptional aside from the concrete barricades and vehicle mounted machine gun at its entrance, while in the supermarket, globalisation has ensured that my shopping experience is as homely as possible. In short, other than than the odd aberration like the peanut wizard, above, nothing's really screaming "blog me!" at the moment. In time all this will change, honest.

Until then, I'm going to see if the heavily censored Saudi internet will allow me to download the new Four Tet album or the new Pangaea EP. Perhaps this weekend (that's Thursday and Friday to you) I'll be able to throw together some sort of review for one or both.

Identikit

Wednesday 20 January 2010

Leaving the cold behind

Tomorrow morning I'll be leaving the now dismal grey British winter for some Saudi Arabian sunshine. Other than the dramatic temperature change, I have almost no idea what's waiting for me at the other end of my flight. The only other middle eastern country I've travelled to is Azerbaijan, a former Soviet state that has more in common with Russia than the strict Muslim countries at its borders. I don't think I've gone without alcohol for as long as four months since I was about 16, and while I'm sure abstinence will be good for my health the psychological effects of relentless sobriety remain to be seen. I know very little about the family I'll be living with or the kids that I'll be tutoring, other than the fact that they are wealthy beyond all reason and that they are Anglophile enough to hire me purely on the basis of my having an Oxford degree. My tutoring experience is negligible, and I'm going to be teaching subjects that I haven't studied myself since I was the children's age.

I'll be working for around four hours a day; the other twenty are mine to do with as I please, and will be the subject of this blog. As well as exploring my surroundings in Jeddah and chronicling the inevitable culture shock, I plan to read, listen to music, write some music and book reviews, and produce some music and art work of my own, which will eventually make it up here for your delectation.

To get things rolling here's a track I finished during the worst of the recent British snow - in tribute to its frosty origins I named it 'Energy Glacier'.



More to come in the next few days.

Identikit